Monday, October 8, 2012

Alaska, Washington and Oregon.....What I Learned!

Whenever I return from a trip I always take a few days to evaluate how it went, what I liked and didn't like about the areas, schedules, etc. and most importantly....would I return.  If I like a location well enough there are good odds that I will return again.  Since we tend to do a quick overview the first time around, there are always things to return to that we would like to see more in-depth or there are things that we simply didn't have time to see the first time around.  Here are my final thoughts on our trek through the Pacific Northwest and Alaska.


Alaska

Alaska is a tough place to evaluate.  When we returned everyone's first question was "Would you go back?"  It took me a while to figure out how exactly I felt about that.  After reflection here are my answers to that seemingly simple question!

Time Frame

We were only in Alaska for 4 days.  Of that time 1 1/2 days was spent traveling there and then traveling to our next stop in Seattle.  It was enough time for an overview of a couple areas of Alaska but not nearly enough time to really see things.  It is a very large state and there are so many things to see that you really need more time than just 4 days to see things.  Now...If you were doing a land/sea trip with one of the cruise lines, they only dedicate about 3-4 days for the land portion so it can be done if you choose a highlight and head there.  I wish we had had at least a day or two more to spend to really see the southern part of the state...south of Anchorage.  I would suggest that if you are going to take the time to get to Alaska...make the time to stay there for about a week.  The cost of the flight is high and the time involved to get there is long....make the most of it.  It may be the only time you get there.

Location

If you have read my previous blogs you know this so bear with me.  If you haven't....we targeted two areas of Alaska on our trip.  We spent the majority of our time focused on Denali National Park.  The second location was the Turnagain Arm, south of Anchorage.


Denali National Park

Let me begin by saying that if you have a chance to visit the park you should definitely do so.  It's a beautiful park.  However, If the question is "Would you go back?"  My answer would be "No."   Here are my reasons:

1. Distance/Location

It is about a 6 hour or so drive to Denali National Park from Anchorage.  It took the better part of a day for us to drive there with minimal stops.  The scenery along the way is pretty but many areas are very "forest-like" with just trees on either side and a two lane highway going between them.  There are not a lot of places to stop and sight-see.  Not much food or civilization on the roadway.  So you are looking at the better part of a day driving there and a better part of the day driving back.  If you have the time and wish to go there, there is plenty to see and do but just be sure to budget your time because it's not really a day trip.



2. Seeing Denali

I was really under the assumption that I would see the mountain even though everything that I read ahead of time prepared me for the real possibility that I would not be able to see it.  I figured that I would at the very least catch a glimpse of the mountain.  Ummmm......NO.  It's like it didn't even exist when we were there.  There really wasn't any opportunity to "catch a glimpse" of it.  Guidebooks will tell you it's about a 30 percent chance of seeing it.  Our tour guide said it was actually closer to 20 percent.  If seeing the mountain is why you are going to the park....you really want to think that through before you decide to make the trip.  Couple the fact that it is a rare sight and you will drive a long way to get there to probably not see the mountain, then decide if it's a trip you want to make.

3.  Tour bus

If you are going to make the trip to Denali the Tundra Wilderness Tour is definitely the way to go as far as viewing the park.  Book well in advance and pray for good weather because they travel rain or shine unless the roadway gets damaged.  If it rains, visibility is low and the wildlife is harder to see.  We were there on a good day and the wildlife was still few and far between and hard to see.  The clouds are very low and obscure the mountains at times.  It is a long trip....long day.  You start out early if you take the morning tour (which is the best to see the animals) and get back around 4:00 PM.  Much of the trip you will not see anything.  You eat a boxed lunch (either from the tour company or one you purchase yourself) as you ride.  There are restroom breaks but no organized lunch stop.  You certainly see things you wouldn't see if you didn't take the tour but quite honestly the highlight of our tour was seeing two bears mating far in the distance!  Glad I did it....would highly recommend it if you are going to Denali....but wouldn't do it again.

4.  Lodging

Lodging was nice at the Princess Wilderness Lodge.  Probably the nicest of the hotels that we saw in our immediate area.  The main areas of the lodge were very nice and provided much to do when you were not in the park itself.  The rooms were nothing to write home about (basic amenities) and were pricey for what they were although no more pricey than other hotels in the area.  Just be prepared to pay top dollar for lodging as there isn't a lot of supply for the demand.  



5.  Sled Dogs

This was my favorite part of the whole park even though it poured while we were there.  If you make the trip to Denali plan to see the Dog Sled Demonstration!



Turnagain Arm

We decided at the last minute to check out the Turnagain Arm area south of Anchorage.  We had half a day to see a few sights before catching our plane.  The three of us agreed that we enjoyed this part of Alaska much more than Denali.  We actually felt like we were finally in "Alaska".  The mountains were beautiful...the lakes pristine....the glaciers amazing.  I wish that we had had more time to spend in this area to see more of the wonderful sights it had to offer.  This is a definite "must do" area if you are going to Alaska.  Allow time to travel the entire Seward Highway and to be able to make stops along the way to just take in the beautiful sights.

"Would you do a cruise instead of traveling on your own?"

This is the other question we heard a lot.  I am still sticking to my original statement that we are NOT "cruise people".  I will say that if you choose to do a cruise they have it down to science and if you do a land portion (which is the only part that we witnessed) you will certainly see the highlights of the state.  Personally small cabins and being herded around in large groups doesn't suit me but it is definitely a good way to see Alaska.  So that is a personal answer and I will leave that up to you, my reader, to make that decision.

Final Decision

Yes I would go back to Alaska but I would skip Denali and focus on the southern part of the State more.  I would love to see more glaciers and the areas with the snow covered mountains and lakes.  The seafood was amazing, the air crisp and fresh, the wildlife fun to see.  If you have a chance to get to Alaska....do it!

Washington

We split our time in Washington with our time in Oregon but really hit two major areas while there, Seattle and Olympic National Park.  



Olympic National Park

Would I do this again?  Part of it maybe...most of it No.  Olympic National Park is actually quite a drive  from Seattle so you need to plan this as a full day trip or plan on staying somewhere nearby (good luck finding lodging nearby).  Hurricane Ridge was beautiful and well worth the trip there.  Beautiful drive...beautiful views.  The remainder of the park was very wet, rainy, cloudy and in some spots downright boring to drive through.  Lots of trees, a few very small towns, not many places to stop and eat or enjoy a view.  The coastline was not very pretty (at least the day we were there).  We planned this a "Part of the Day" trip and then continued to drive to Eugene, Oregon that evening.  That was way too long of a trip for one day.  Better planning on our part, may have made this more enjoyable but  all in all I was a little underwhelmed with this National Park.  Having been to Mount Rainier National Park and Cascade National Park on a previous trip to the area I would recommend both of those over Olympic.  If I were to go again, I would head up Hurricane Ridge and head back down and out the way I came!



Seattle

Seattle is a terrific city.  I have to admit it is probably not in my top 10 but it's a great place to visit and I would highly recommend it if you have a chance to visit Washington.  The weather is iffy...our summer visit was quite damp and cold and drizzly....our trip in October last year was sunny and beautiful so who knows!  It's an interesting city....much older looking than I imagined but has some character.  Pike's Place Market is always a fun adventure and truly offers an insight into the area.  This is a definite "must do" if you are in Washington and definitely a place that I would return to in a heartbeat.

Oregon

Finally Oregon....we spent time at Crater Lake National Park as well as in the Portland Area at Columbia River Gorge and Mt. St. Helens.  I really enjoyed our time in Oregon and would definitely make a return trip.



Crater Lake National Park

This is definite MUST SEE.  Put this on your bucket list if isn't already there!  It is near NOTHING.  It is an adventure getting there and it is more of an adventure being there!  This may be the single most beautiful place I have ever had the fortune to see.  We planned about half a day to spend there and for us this was the perfect amount of time.  We don't do long hikes but do like to see the highlights and take time to take some pictures and enjoy the beauty of the area,  I don't know if my travels will ever take me back to Crater Lake simply because of it's location but I am happy that I was able to see it!



Portland/Columbia River Gorge/Mt. St. Helens

All of these areas are great areas to visit.  The city of Portland is a nice area.  Modern but you know you are in the Pacific West Coast.  I really enjoyed the area a lot.  Columbia River Gorge is beautiful and a "must see".  This was our second time visiting the Gorge and it was just as amazing the second time around.  Mount St. Helens seems to have horrible weather conditions which makes it very difficult to see.  The visitor's center is very interesting but I have to say that the trip there is a bit long and around nothing else and if you don't get to see the mountain itself it can be a bit disappointing.  


Final Thoughts

Our Summer Adventure 2012 was an amazing trip.  It was a whirlwind.  Those of you who know me or have read some of my blogs, know this is not unusual for our family!  We try to cram as much into our days as we possibly can.  Our theory....you never know when or if you will get back so try to see as much as possible!  

I would say I wish for this particular trip that we had allotted a few more days or tried to "cram in" a few less things.  So the answer is....yes I would return to most of the places that we visited but I would maybe do them in a different time frame or would plan a slightly different itinerary.  These are all places that should be visited and enjoyed but make your plans wisely.  The travel time to get there may be long depending on where you live...you're there....make the most of it!