Journey to Hawaii 2015 - Day 7: Cliffs and Waterfalls on the Big Island

Sometimes the weather gets crazy even in paradise.  When we woke up on this 7th morning of our trip, you could just tell it was going to be one of those types of days!  The wind was blowing and gusts were around 50 MPH so we decided to check out the conditions on the Northeast side of the Island.  It just so happened that the winds weren't nearly as high in that part of the Island so off we went to explore this area.  

Waipio Valley - View from the Overlook

Waipio Valley

Our first stop was at the Waipio Valley Overlook.  My husband and I had visited this area last year and it was one of our favorite views.  It was definitely on our "must go back and take our son to see this" list!  

The Waipio Valley is located on the Hamakua Coast of the Big Island of Hawaii.  One one side you will see cliffs reaching heights of nearly 2000 feet and you will see the beautiful ocean on the other side.  You will see waterfalls and black sand beach.  This area is often called the Valley of the Kings because it was the home to many Hawaiian rulers including Kamehameha the Great.  It is both a sacred and mystical place and you will definitely feel that as you approach the overlook.

There is something very special about this area and visitors are asked to be respectful of the sacredness.  There are many things that you can view from the overlook....waterfalls, black sand...cliffs...the beautiful blue waters and the waves crashing onshore.  That is all very easily viewed from the viewing area.  If you want to delve deeper into the valley and take some hikes, you can certainly make the hike on your own.  There are also shuttles/vans that can take you into the valley and you can also take a tour on horseback.  

Here are some observations and tips from our visit:

1.  The day that we visited was a Saturday.  The previous year we visited on a weekday later in the afternoon and the place was almost empty.  This year being that it was 9:00 AM on a Saturday morning, the place was packed.  There is a small parking area near the top of the overlook.  This parking lot was completely full and the overflow parking was just along the roadway.  We ended up parking a little ways from the overlook and made the short walk to the overlook.  Tip:  If you can time your visit to the Waipio Valley on a weekday, you may have a less crowded experience.

2.  There is a short walk from the parking area down to the overlook itself.  The walk is on a decent slope.  There is a paved ramp with handrails that takes you down to the overlook.  Just be aware that this is also the only way up.  It is not a difficult walk but could be a bit of an issue for someone who may be physically challenged.

3.  Take your time.  There were many people around the day that we were there.  Be patient.  Everyone wants to get that perfect photo because believe me this is a beautiful place! Don't be intimidated by the crowds, just wait till things clear out a bit (people typically only stay for about 10-15 min) and then take your best shot!

If you would like more info and photos please refer to our stop here last year.  My 2014 blog on the Waipio Valley can be found at http://travelswithmel.blogspot.com/2014/04/journey-to-hawaiithe-big-islandday-7.html

Onomea Bay Scenic Drive

Onomea Bay

As you continue on around the Northern Shore of the Big Island heading the East and the city of Hilo, you will go past an area marked by a short 4 mile scenic drive.  This is a MUST DO when you are visiting the Big Island.  Even if you have a short time to spend you must do this.  Along this short drive you will see waterfalls, one lane bridges, lush tropical foliage, a beautiful botanical garden and Onomea Bay.  You will see signs for the scenic drive off of Route 19 and the roadway will take you

right back to Route 19 to continue on your way once you are done exploring.  

Here is a very detailed website that will describe exactly what you will see along your way.

http://www.instanthawaii.com/cgi-bin/hi?Drives.onomea

The highlight of this drive for us is the view of Onomea Bay itself.  It is a beautiful bay with wonderful scenery.  It has not been crowded either of the times that we were there (again this particular trip was on a Saturday morning).  Even if you just stop to snap a picture you won't be sorry that you took time out for this stop!

We did not revisit the Botanical Garden this year but it is another place that I highly recommend (and details can be found in my previous blog listed above).  There is a fee for the Botanical Garden but you can take your time and walk around and take in the beautiful tropical flowers and waterfalls. 

Akaka Falls State Park

Akaka Falls

Our next stop along our drive was at Akaka Falls State Park.  This was another place that we revisited during our stay in 2015.  There is a small fee to park in the parking lot by the falls.  Many people don't wish to pay the fee so they park on the street and walk in.  The walk is not far provided the park is not crowded.  This was another place that was practically empty when we visited on a weekday in 2014 and was totally packed on a Saturday morning on this stay.  We had to drive around the area several times to find a parking spot in the parking lot.  We would have parked on the roadway however it was packed also and the walk was a bit long to get to the park that day.  

Kahuna Falls

When you get into the park there is a pathway that is paved and easy to maneuver.  If you go to your left, you will go directly to Akaka Falls.  If you go to the right you can take a circle path past Kahuna Falls and then on to Akaka Falls.  Now here is where I did not listen to my own advice!   If you read my past blog (referenced above) you will see that there is really not much to see if you take the right pathway.  Kahuna Falls while very high is very difficult to see and when you walk all the way to the end of the path you will very likely say, "That's it???"  There is also quite a slope on the pathway as you walk back toward Akaka Falls so it's just something to be aware of if you decide to take the longer path.  There is also nothing of particular interest along the way between the two falls.  You are definitely in the lush area of the island so everything is green and there are some flowering trees but honestly if you missed this portion you would not be missing a whole lot.  

Akaka Falls is definitely the highlight of the park.  It is very accessible and definitely a must see if you are in the area.  The falls are 422 feet high and you can see the entire falls including the pool below.  This is another area that gets a bit crowded so take your time.  Be patient and you will get that perfect shot.  

I would estimate the time here is anywhere from 1-2 hours (depending on whether you take the circle pathway or just see Akaka Falls).  

Rainbow Falls - Hilo

Rainbow Falls - Hilo

I have to say that this is one of my favorite stops on the Big Island.  The waterfall is so accessible.  Parking is easy and plentiful and the walk to the falls is literally a few feet from the parking area.  You may read many different reviews of this with differing opinions on whether or not it is a worthwhile stop because it isn't a particularly large waterfall.  This is a relatively quick stop 10-15 min and you will be able to both photograph and enjoy the falls.  

Back to the Kona Side

After spending the morning and early afternoon sightseeing on the Northshore and East Coast of the Big Island it was time to head back across to the Kona side.  The high wind warning was still in effect, thunderstorms were due to roll in any time and it was Valentine's Day so we decided to stop for dinner on our way back to the resort since most of the resort and other area restaurants were booked for the evening.  We were early so we decided to eat at Romano's Macaroni Grill at the Queen's Marketplace near the resort.  Our meal was average.  Server took a long time to wait on us and got a little waylaid but again with the holiday we were just happy to find a place to eat.  

After dinner the sky let loose and the winds and rains really came onshore.  Luckily we didn't have any plans for the evening! It was an early evening which was good so we could "prepare" for our last day on the Big Island the next day!  

Coming Next:  

Journey to Hawaii 2015 - Day 8:  Spas and Cabanas - Relaxing on the Big Island

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Journey to Hawaii 2015 - Day 6 : Day 6 - Green Sand, Black Sand, Divers and Volcanoes

South Point (Ka Lae) 

Divers at Ka Lae

Climbing back up from a dive

We got up this morning and decided to head out on a road trip.  Now one thing you should know is that they call it the "Big Island" for a reason.  The Island of Hawaii is nearly twice as large as all of the other Hawaiian Islands combined.  It is also roughly the size of the state of Connecticut so when you take a road trip on the Big Island be prepared that it will take you awhile to get to where you are going.  It is not just around the corner or a short trip in most cases so make sure it's a day that you want to spend away from your resort.

One of the many sea caves in this area

Our first stop on this day was Ka Lae the Southernmost spot in the US.  Yes it is even further south than Key West.  We were staying at the Hilton Waikoloa Beach which is about 30 min north of Kona along the Kohala Coast.  The drive to Ka Lae was a little over 2 hours.  Most of the roadway is highway (Route 11).   When you get to the Ka Lae area there is a small paved 2 lane roadway that takes you directly to the coast.  Now I have read reviews of this area where people don't feel that the drive is worth it....the roadway is not interesting...takes too long to get there...not that exciting once you do get there.  Personally I think this little diversion is an awesome place to visit.  We visited it last year during our trip to the Big Island and it was definitely on our list to visit again this year!

Just fun to watch the divers!

The scenery is just gorgeous with the blue waters contrasting with the cliffs.  You don't have to make this a really long stop but you must take time to enjoy the views and marvel at the cliff divers.  There are sea caves that the divers climb up to get back to the top and they are fun to look into also.  The parking area gets crowded and much of it is on uneven ground.  Just take care where you park that you don't get your rental car stuck!  

There are portable toilets here but no "real" bathrooms.

Amazing Coastal Scenery

Green Sand Beach (Papakolea)

Green Sand Beach

Just a short drive from Ka Lae, is Papakolea Beach, better known as the Green Sand Beach.  Once again you will read many differing views of this area.  I am going to relay what our experience was.  Take into consideration your own personal likes and dislikes when making your decision whether to visit this or not.

When we visited the Big Island last year we arrived at Ka Lae very late in the afternoon so by the time we made the additional trek over to the Green Sand Beach parking area we were a little late to start the hike to the beach.  We also didn't quite know what to expect when we arrived there and weren't sure how to catch a ride with a local although we had read that this was a possibility.  This year we made it a priority to figure out how to get to the Green Sand Beach!

The Green Sand beach on the Big Island is one of only four green sand beaches in the world.  It actually lies within a cinder cone that has partially collapsed and has been eroded by the ocean waters.  Three sides of the cinder cone are still in tact and provide part of the picturesque beauty of the area.  The "green" color of the sand comes from the mineral olivine which is a common mineral found in Hawaiian Lavas.

Basics 

Here are the basics on how to get to the Green Sand Beach:

1.  Park in the parking area near the area.  There are signs posted and it is easy to find off the roadway.

2.  Decide if you want to take the 2.5 mile hike (each way) to the beach or if you want to catch a ride with a local.

3.  If you decide you want to take the hike make sure you pack plenty of water and prepare for a pretty rugged hike.  It is not the elevation of the area that makes it difficult.  It is the fact that there is no shade and the roadway is all dirt and deeply rutted.

4.  If you decide to catch a ride with a local, just simply find one in this area and be prepared to pay about $15.00 per person for the ride.  Personally I think this was the best $45.00 (3 of us) that I spent during our stay!

5.  Be prepared for an adventure.  The road is rough but half the fun is getting to the beach and back.

6.  Do NOT expect to see a dark green sand.  The sand is green but it is more of an olive color than a hunter green color.  Many reviewers indicate that they are disappointed by the fact that it's not greener.  As long as you have reasonable expectations I have no idea why anyone would be disappointed when going here.  There is also a smaller beach (more on that later) in the same area that is a darker green.

7.  Be prepared to get dirty!  The roadway is dirt and you will be wearing a lot of it after trekking to the beach and back.

8.  When you get to the beach area, there is a climb down some steps imbedded in the cinder cone to get down to the actual beach.  It is not a difficult walk down but be prepared for it.

The ladder and rock you must climb down/up to get to and from the Green Sand Beach

More Detail on your Trip to the Green Sand Beach

Terrain along the way to the Beach

We followed the signs to the Green Sand Beach and parked in the parking area there. Almost  

immediately we were met by Iwani who asked us if we wanted a ride to the beach. We had read reviews about the long hike and were happy to find someone to take us to the beach. He matched us up with another couple who were looking to go just to take some photos and leave so we wouldn't be stuck there longer than we planned on. He told us his fee was $15.00/person for the trip to the beach and back. We all loaded up in the back of his 1985 4WD truck and off we went!

The road was very rough and there is no way that you could do this drive without a 4WD vehicle! We saw several people making the hike. This would not be an easy hike! There is no shade...the road is dirt and very dusty. The terrain is rocky. To me the $15.00 was the best bargain of the day!! Our ride was bumpy and warm but Iwani kept us entertained with stories and kept us laughing all the way!

Our ride with Iwani....Notice the El Camino "convertible next to us!

Once we arrived at the beach, our guide explained that we would need to climb down a ladder and then some rocks to get to the beach itself. The view was amazing even from the top but we wanted to get a closer look so we walked down. Now I am not always the most graceful person but I had no trouble making the trek down to the beach. When we arrived the green sand awaited us. It was beautiful....it sparkled....almost like gold or glitter! The water was a mix of turquoise and deep blue and the dark mountains framing the area provided a beautiful contrast. I almost felt sensory overload with the vivid colors!

We spent about 30 minutes walking around and taking photos and then we made the climb back up the hill and loaded back up in the truck for the trip back to the parking area. Iwani was awesome as he took us back he again shared some local stories and even made an extra side stop at a beach that had even greener sand for us. He took photos of us on the beach and allowed us to explore for a few minutes. 

Some of the Local Drivers

As we drove back we saw many locals taking visitors down to the beach...you never knew what kind of vehicle you might see along the way. The adventure is half the fun of the visit! I would highly recommend making a trip to the Green Sand Beach one of your priorities when visiting the Big Island. I would also highly recommend taking the ride unless you are an experienced hiker and if you are taking the ride, make sure that you look up Iwani.....he is an awesome guide!

Final Thoughts

Some of the Green Sand 

To a person each of us, my husband, my son and myself picked this as the highlight of our stay on the Big Island.  The views were amazing but it was so enhanced by the ride with our guide Iwani.  He made the trip so much fun and we learned about the local area. We saw so many whales breaching just off the beach also....it was an extra treat!  I would say that the biggest thing you must do if you decide to visit this beach is be ready to "go with the flow".  The road is crazy bumpy, the vehicles the locals drive are crazy looking....some of them you stand in the back of a truck with railings, some are old el dorado's with the top cut off to make a convertible.  You never know what you might see.  Just be prepared for any kind of adventure that might crop up and you may just have the time of your life!

Black Sand (Punalu_u Beach)

 

Our next stop was about a 30-45 minute drive East of Ka Lae and the Green Sand Beach.  This was at Punalu_u Beach.  While there are several black sand beaches on the Island this one has the easiest access.  We simply parked in the large, paved parking area and made a short walk onto the beach.  

Black Sand Beach

Once again, the black sand contrasting with the blue water is a sight to behold! You can swim at this beach and there are picnic tables and restrooms here so if you would like to spend part of a day here you certainly could.  

One of the places I would encourage you to make a stop at on your way to or from the beach is the Punalum'u Bake Shop!  There are wonderful bakery items as well as all kind of drinks and snacks that you can stock up on.  There are also "real" restrooms here!  

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

After leaving the Black Sand Beach, we continued on our trip around the southern coast of the Big Island, heading East and ending up at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.  Unfortunately just as we got to the park, the weather changed a bit and we started to get some rain. We did not let this deter us however.  

We quickly headed down Chain of Craters Road to the very end in order to take a look at the Sea Arch at the coast.  The Arch was one of our favorite things to see here last year and we definitely wanted to share it with our son this year.  The arch will deteriorate at some point in the future and more will be made by future lava flows but as of right now this one is still going strong!

Sea Arch - Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

On our way back up Chain of Craters Road, we made a few stops at a few of the craters along the way.

One of the Craters along Chain of Craters Road

Next stop was the Thurston Lava Tube.  This is a must see if you are in the park.  The walk to the tube is a pretty easy one.  The tube itself isn't too long and is very well lit.  It is just amazing to think that you can walk through something created by a lava flow!

Finally we were ready to head past the steam vents and to the Jaggar Museum and Visitor Center.  What we found was that when it rains the steam vents become VERY active.  While this makes the steam vents more impressive....it makes viewing of the caldera almost impossible!  We were able to catch a very brief glimpse of the glowing caldera at night but it was gone almost as soon as it came into view.  Tip:  If you are looking for a clear view of the caldera at night...make sure that you choose a day without rain!

If you would like to see more photos and information about Hawaii Volcanoes National Park please see my blog from last year's trip when the weather was clear.  http://travelswithmel.blogspot.com/2014/04/journey-to-hawaiithe-big-islandday-8.html

Back to Mauna Kea

Since our viewing was so limited at the volcano, we decided that since the night was still young, and since we had to drive across the Island anyway, that we would stop at Mauna Kea for one more look at the beautiful stars.  The weather on this part of the Island was fine and we had beautiful viewing conditions.  Again, the winds were high and the summit was closed but the viewing from the visitor's center couldn't be better. Tip: I would encourage you to check the weather ahead if you have your heart set on visiting the summit.

Time to Call it a Day

It was about time to call it a day after a long day of driving and viewing some amazing things.  Yes, the trip around the Big Island can take some time but as far as I'm concerned it's totally worth it!

Coming Next: 

Day 7 - Cliffs and Waterfalls 

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Journey to Hawaii 2015 - Day 5 - Adventure at Sea on the Big Island

Early Morning Whale Watching

If you have read my blogs from last year's trip to the Big Island you know that one of the highlights of our 2014 trip was the Breakfast With The Whales whale watching trip with Ocean Sports.  So as soon as we settled in on our schedule for our 2015 trip, we booked our return whale watching adventure with Ocean Sports.  Our son did not go with us on our 2014 trip so we were especially excited about having him along with us to enjoy the adventure.  

Instead of boring you with the same information that I provided last year, I will give you the link to my previous blog.  That blog will give you all the particulars of the trip and what to expect when booking your adventure.  

https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4162636094834192500#editor/target=post;postID=1867842413715982637;onPublishedMenu=posts;onClosedMenu=posts;postNum=24;src=postname

There's nothing like seeing a whale breach right in front of your eyes!

So How did this year compare?

Sometimes when you do the same thing a second time around it isn't quite like you remember it the first time.  In the case of this year's whale watching I wouldn't say it was not as good but I would say that it was a different experience.

Tip:  If you are booking a return trip with Ocean Sports within the year, they will give you a discount on your return trip.  Make sure to ask for that when you call to book!

Hotel Pick up

Since we were staying at the Hilton Waikoloa Village, our pick up time for the Breakfast with the Whales trip was at 7:15 AM from the lower lobby.  There is bench seating just outside of the lobby and our van arrived right on time to pick us up and take us on our adventure.  There were several guests taking this particular trip so we gave our names to the driver who quickly checked us in and we were on our way.  After a brief stop at Queens Marketplace at the Ocean Sports Storefront to sign some paperwork we all loaded back into the van and headed to A-bay for our departure.  

The first thing we noticed when we arrived at the beach was that the surf was a little higher than the previous year.  The entire week that we were in the Islands this year, there were high surf warnings both on Kauai as well as the Big Island.  This day was no different.  We found out later that we were the only cruise that wasn't cancelled for the next several days.  So on the one hand we were very lucky to be able to head out and see these wonderful sea creatures and on the other hand it was a little bit of a rough ride this year. 

Boarding

Nothing had changed with the boarding process.  There is a small ramp a few feet into the ocean that you climb up to board the glass bottom boat to ride out to the catamaran that is anchored several yards off shore.  It is a "wet boarding" so make sure you wear flip flops or have shoes that you can easily remove in order to board the glass bottom boat.  This was our first inkling that it was going to be a little rougher at sea as the glass bottom boat was tossed around a little as it butted up to the ramp.  A quick 5 minute ride took us to the catamaran and again we were tossed around a bit as we got to the larger boat.  We then made the transfer to the catamaran and found a place toward the front to try to grab the best pictures that we could.  

The Adventure Begins

While the surf was high and ride was quite a bit rougher than the previous year we actually saw more whales this year than last year (and I thought that was a lot at the time!)  Last year we saw mostly tails, spouts and pec slaps.  This year we got to see several whales breaching and competition pods as well as tails and spouts.  There is absolutely nothing more mesmerizing than watching a gigantic humpback whale breach!  It definitely makes the trip worthwhile!!  The trip last about an hour and a half on the boat and we saw whales almost the entire time!  We definitely were in "whale soup"!

The biggest difference this year was that there were several passengers who got sea sick.  Last year it was literally "smooth sailing" and not one passenger got the slightest bit ill.  This year with the higher surf it was a totally different story.  About 15 minutes into the tour, passengers started to get ill and that lasted pretty much the entire time we were out there.  Luckily due to my previous whale watching experience in Monterey (which this was not nearly as bad as that!) we had made sure to take some Bonine about an hour before we left for the day at sea.  All I can say is thank goodness we had taken something!  Tip:  If you know you get seasick please be sure to take something or use a method to prevent seasickness before you get on the boat.  In fact if you don't know if you get seasick or not....make sure you take something.  It's better to be safe than sorry and there's nothing worse than being sick and stuck on a boat till the tour is over!

That being said the scenery was fantastic and whales were really out in force.  We definitely were glad we took the time to go back for a second year!

Getting back to the hotel

After the tour was over, you just reverse the boarding process....get off the catamaran onto the glass bottom boat, take the glass bottom boat to shore and then take the van back to the drop off area of your resort.  It's all a very seamless and easy process.

Tip:  For taking one of the cruises, you receive discounts on water toy rentals and on booking other cruises during your stay.  If you are interested in either of these, please make sure to take advantage of the discounts offered.  Discounts do not apply to cabana rentals at the Hilton Waikoloa Village however, even though they are run by Ocean Sports.

Lunch with the Dolphins

Once we arrived back at the resort we decided to grab some lunch on our way back to our rooms.  We  decided on a quick lunch at the Lagoon Grill.  The best thing about the Lagoon Grill is that it is right next to the dolphin area of the Hilton Waikoloa Village and you can watch the dolphins play and interact with trainers as well as guests.  The food itself was ok.  It was not a particularly memorable meal but it was good for lunch with decent variety.  The service was slow.  I would not recommend this restaurant if you are in a hurry but then again I could probably say the same thing about any of the resort restaurants.  

We enjoyed our meals, watched the dolphins for awhile and then did a quick tour of the resort as we headed back to the room to change for the rest of the day's activities.  As we walked we saw sea turtles lounging and swimming around.  We also saw some amazing "flying fish" that would just suddenly fling themselves into the air and land quite a distance away!  Combine that with some amazing views of the ocean and and the lush resort plants and it was a beautiful walk back to the room!

Kohala Coast

We decided to leave the resort in early afternoon and head up the Kohala Coast to the "end of the road" at the Pololu Beach Overlook.  This is a nice afternoon drive from the resort.  Figure on a couple hour drive as you travel through King Kamehameha's birthplace, Hawi Town and Kapa'au on your way to some beautiful scenery along the northern shore of the Big Island.  While this is maybe not as striking of a day trip as you will find in other directions, it is definitely worth the trip if you have the time to do it.  From there we headed to our next stop....

Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea is another "must do" if you are visiting the Big Island.  There are several tours that you can take to the summit of Mauna Kea.  The tour companies will pick you up at your resort, provide you with a dinner, take you to the summit and then stick around for star gazing near the visitor's center.  Tours run around $200.00 per person on average and last about 7 hours.  We chose NOT to do the tour.  We did not do it in 2014 and decided against it again.  The reasons that we did not do the tour were 1.  It takes up a large portion of your day.  2.  It is not inexpensive.  3.  You can view the stars at the Visitor's Center for free and you have more control over the amount of time that you spend.  Whether you decide that the tour is for you or you want to do it yourself.....please make time to get here at least once while you are on the Island.  You will not regret the time spent!

While we were there, there were high wind warnings on the Island and that meant that trips to the summit were limited.  This evening the summit was open but the temps were low and wind chills were below freezing.  Please note that you can make the trip up to the summit in your own vehicle if you have a high clearance 4WD vehicle.  

Tip:  If you are planning to visit Mauna Kea (either the summit or the visitor's center), make sure you pack warm clothes.  

Since my husband and I had been there the previous year, we made sure that we packed up some warm clothes to wear when we headed to Mauna Kea.   I am not just talking jeans...i am talking winter coats, hats, scarves and gloves and sweatshirts!  Believe me we needed every bit of the clothing that we brought!

We stopped in Waikoloa Village and picked up subs at the local Subway and a few snacks and took them with us to Mauna Kea.  We took time to eat in our vehicle while we waited for the darkness to set in.  I would recommend getting there before dark because 1.  It's easier traveling one direction in while it's still light out and 2.  You can secure a better parking spot.

There are several telescopes set up at the visitor's center.  The program is entirely free and you just have to bring your patience as you stand in line for your turn to see the stars.  Believe me there are so many stars that you can see with the naked eye that you will not have trouble waiting your turn!  This is truly an amazing place.  The stars are just everywhere and so brilliant.  You will never see another place like this so make sure you take the time to soak it all in!

Back to the Resort

After our trek to Mauna Kea it was time to head back to the resort for the night.  Our day started with the Sea and ended with the Stars and was a perfect day in paradise!

Coming Next: 

Day 6 - Green Sand, Black Sand, Divers and Volcanoes

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