Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Colorado - Historic Durango and a Crazy Snow Storm

After spending half a day at Mesa Verde National Park, we headed back to Durango to check out the historic downtown area.

Durango, Colorado



Durango is the most populous city in the area coming in with a total population of 16, 887.  While there are different areas of the city, the most famous part is the Historic Downtown District.  Billed as  the place "Where Old West meets Southwest",  downtown Durango is a nationally registered historic district.  It is an area where you will find boutique hotels, shops, award winning restaurants, laid back saloons, museums and art galleries.  

If you have ever been to Jackson Hole, Wyoming....this downtown district will remind you a little bit of that!

We were fighting the raindrops a bit by the time we arrived in downtown and found a place to park so we didn't get to see as much as I would have liked but what we did see, was really interesting.  

Even if you don't have much time, I would encourage you to visit the downtown area.   Spend some time just walking around and taking in the feel of it.  People are very friendly and the shops are inviting.  It really is like a step back in time.  Even the Starbucks looks Old West!

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum (Free)

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad runs right through Durango literally!  You can even take a ride on the narrow gauge tracks on a 45 mile (each way) journey.  Packages are available and you can purchase tickets in town at the Railroad Station.  http://www.durangotrain.com/ride-us/-route#.Va-gK3jpkaU


We didn't have the time built into our schedule to do the train ride but we did have time to take a look through the Museum.  This was a really interesting place to visit...made more so by the fact that my father worked on the railroad most of his life so many of the things were familiar to me.  There is no cost to visit the museum and you can spend as little or as much time there as you want at your own pace.  We spent about half and hour or so looking around just to give you an idea.  








Back to the Homewood Suites

After spending some time exploring downtown, we grabbed a bite to eat and headed back to the Homewood Suites for our last night in Durango.  We were watching the weather closely and were seeing that a springtime snow storm was forecast for the area for the next day.  Thunderstorms had already begun in the evening.  We wanted to get a good night's sleep so we could be up early and get out of town ahead of the major snows being forecast.  Well.....


The Best Laid Plans.....




The PLAN was to get up early and get started on the next leg of our trip.  The next leg involved traveling north through the San Juan Mountains and heading to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park for a visit and ending up in Glenwood Springs (near Aspen) for the evening.

The first part of the plan was good....we got up early!  As we were getting gas in Durango before heading into the mountains, the store attendant asked if we were going to be traveling.  When I responded that we were, he told me to make sure we were really careful.  Ok...that sounded a bit ominous but we grabbed a few waters to take along the way and we were off.  The heavy snow was forecast for above 7500 feet.  We had no idea how the road traversed this area so we were cautious but hopeful that we wouldn't get into the heaviest of the snow.  Mind you this was May 9th!!  

Well let me tell you we got into some snow that was pretty bad.  The roads were covered...no signs of a plow and only a few cars on the roadways.  We tried following the tracks of the cars that had gone before us but they were quickly filled in by the snow coming down!  So here we were in a snowstorm to beat all snowstorms on an unfamiliar roadway on a mountain!!  Personally I would NOT recommend this!  We spent several hours trying to figure out where the road was and hanging on for dear life hoping we didn't misjudge the edge of the mountain.  Luckily we did rent a 4WD vehicle and this was very helpful!  

When we finally got off the mountain areas and down below the 7500 feet mark, the weather got much better.  Since it was springtime, the snow melt was in full force and there were some amazing waterfalls that made the already beautiful scenery even more beautiful!  It was nice to be able to get of the vehicle and take some pictures of the area!

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Once we headed into Montrose, Colorado we were in an all rain situation.  Montrose is one of the closest cities to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  We stopped to grab a bite to eat at the local Subway and decided to give our visit to the Park the old college try.  As soon as we headed out of town, the weather continued to worsen but it was still rain.  The radar showed snow in the mountains near the park so we were leary about actually being able to get there.  Once we made the turn onto the road to the park, the snows hit and kept coming down harder and harder.  After our experience earlier in the day, we had no desire to head into another massive snow storm.  We also decided that the viewing conditions of the park on a day like that were less than ideal.  We didn't want to go just to say we had been there...we wanted to go when we could see what there was to see...so we decided to turn around and just head to our hotel in Glenwood Springs.  While this was a rather disappointing turn of events it is always a good to have a reason to go back to Colorado!




Traveling to Glenwood Springs

Luckily the roadway to Glenwood Springs, while remote was at a lower elevation than the snows around us so while we did have rain most of the way, we did not hit any more of the major snows.  This was a pretty remote area of Colorado that we were traversing with little phone or data signal but there were many beautiful sights to see and enjoy along the way.


Hampton Inn Glenwood Springs



Once we arrived in Glenwood Springs we were still a little early to check into the hotel so we headed to a shopping plaza nearby, looked around a bit and made a stop at the local Starbucks.  By the time we finished up it was time to check in so we headed back to the hotel.  The rains came again (no snow) so we decided to just chill at the hotel and call for some Domino's pizza delivery!  The room was nice, clean...warm and dry!  The breakfast the next morning was really good.  Has to be the best Hampton Inn Breakfast I have seen!  Lots of selection and the food was very tasty too!  After a good night's sleep we were ready for the last leg of our mini vacation.

Coming Next:  Blackhawk and Denver

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Colorado - Blackhawk and Back to Denver


After our crazy trip around the state of Colorado, our plans for the last day of our mini vacation were pretty simple.  We wanted to stop in Aspen just to see what was there.  We wanted to stop in Blackhawk and spend a few hours in the casino area.  We wanted to drive back to Denver and have dinner at our favorite restaurant...Ruth's Chris Steakhouse.  However...the way this trip was starting to go...we weren't sure what to expect next!

Aspen

When we woke up the next morning, we discovered that Glenwood Springs had somehow missed the mass quantities of snow that much of the state had received.  However, Aspen had!  Since we had decided that we really want to make a trip back to see Black Canyon of the Gunnison when it's not in the middle of a Blizzard, we also decided to put the Aspen stop on hold also.  We had dinner reservations for 7:00 PM and any delay with road conditions could have caused everything to be thrown off so better to be safe than sorry.


Blackhawk





While the morning started with a little disappointment in not being able to get to Aspen, we had a beautiful trip across I-70 through the ski areas.  The snow was heavy and beautiful on the tree branches and the sun had come out making this an awesome sight.  The trip to Blackhawk was pretty uneventful except for a few areas where roadways were a bit snow covered still.  Travel time was about 2 1/2 hours.  

Once we arrived in Blackhawk we headed to Isle Casino, played a few slots (nothing really was paying so we didn't play long!)  and grabbed lunch at Calypso's Buffet.  We had been to Blackhawk a few times before and nothing much has changed.  This is an old mining town (pop. 118 in the 2010 census) that has been converted to a casino town.  Many of the casinos are smaller and are housed in the restored historical buildings.  Even if you don't like to gamble much, it's fun just to see the town!

After an average lunch, we decided to head out towards Denver and our hotel.  Again, the Cavaliers were in the playoffs and we really wanted to get checked into our hotel before the game!!

Embassy Suites Denver International Airport




This is one of our "go to" hotels in the Denver area.  We have stayed there many times and have always found the employees to be very friendly and the rooms clean and comfortable.  This time was no different.  The nice thing about staying at this particular Embassy Suites is they have a wonderful shuttle to the Airport.  Most of our Colorado trips are tied to a business trip that my husband is making.  His business is out of Colorado Springs so he either has to drop me off at the airport very early OR we can stay at the Embassy Suites and he can leave for Colorado Springs and I can take the shuttle to the airport.  I much prefer the latter option!  The shuttle is always on time and the hotel employees are very friendly and helpful with baggage.  If you need a place to stay near the airport I would highly recommend this hotel!

We arrived at the hotel a little early but were delighted to find that our room was ready for us. We were able to get situated in our room just in time for the second half of the game!  It also gave us plenty of time to get ready for our much anticipated dinner at Ruth's Chris!

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse Denver





Anyone who has read my blogs or knows me well, knows that Ruth's Chris is our favorite way to start or end a trip (or anywhere in between!)  We love the restaurant and have had wonderful dinners there for many special occasions.  Many years ago Denver had a Ruth's Chris and we went to it (of course we did!)  It was ok but one of my least favorite locations.  They then shut it down and haven't had one for a few years.  When I looked at the area again, I noticed that they had opened another location near the first one but in a slightly different area.  Yippee!  We were excited about having the opportunity to visit this one and booked two months in advance of our trip!

Well......when we booked we didn't realize that our reservation was for Mother's Day.  We were very happy that we had made our reservation so far in advance once we realized that.  We got all dressed up and were excited to head to our dinner.  After rainy, snowy weather and lots of Subway and quick dinners, we were ready to taste a great steak!  We arrived about 10 minutes early for our reservation and were surprised that there was only one other couple waiting for a table.  A hostess directed that couple one way and sent us in another.  Turns out we were seated in the bar area.  Ok....not exactly feeling comfortable being the only person in a dress in this area.  In fact everyone else was dressed for a bar except us.  We had never been to this location before so we figured this must be the seating area.  (Turns out there was a very nice dining room the other direction!) Well needless to say this didn't start out to be a great experience and unfortunately it only went downhill from there!  

Our service was terrible.  Very slow (and it really wasn't crowded) service and our server seemed very distracted.  When our food finally arrived our steaks were overcooked and didn't even look like the filet that we had ordered.  After sending it back, the second one was slightly better than the first but still not the quality that we have come to expect. 

When we finally got to dessert....they informed us that they do not serve their cheesecake with berries at this location.  What?  That's definitely a classic dessert and one that is served in all other Ruth's Chris Locations.  

Anyway...this location certainly wasn't up to the normal Ruth's Chris high standards and certainly did not meet ours.  I will say that I did send a complaint to Ruth's Chris and did receive a call from the manager who did reimburse part of our meal with a gift card for a future visit.  However, I still think he was convinced that we were upset about the seating rather than the quality of food and the service.  I really wouldn't have cared where I sat as long as the food was good!!  

I would NOT recommend this location of Ruth's Chris.  Our last 3 of 4 experiences at different locations have been disappointing.  I am hoping that this is not an overall decline of quality at all Ruth's Chris locations.  Stay tuned...we have one booked for our next trip!

Final Thoughts

So overall, this was a tale of two vacations in a way.  The first half was really great.  We saw some amazing sights at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Mesa Verde National Park as well as downtown Durango and the Four Corners Monument.  Once the weather turned bad, it really had an effect on what we were able to accomplish and it seemed as though the last half was rather disappointing.  Just keep in mind when you are planning vacations that are weather dependent that you have to be really flexible.  Things can change in a heartbeat!  

Coming Next:  Our Crazy National Park Plan - August 2015

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Monday, July 20, 2015

Colorado - The Lesser Visited Parks - Mesa Verde National Park



The next park on our agenda was Mesa Verde National Park

Again, this was another park that for some reason I didn't realize was in Colorado.  I was watching the Ken Burns National Park Series one evening and thought....hmm...haven't been to that one!  I started to do some research on the park and realized that it fit in with this crazy little mini-vacation around the state of Colorado!

Planning Your Visit to Mesa Verde National Park

There are a few things you should know before planning your trip.  Mesa Verde is located about 40 minutes west of Durango, Colorado.  Durango is the closest city to the park.  If you are making the trek from the Denver area you are looking at approximately a 7 hour drive.  There are campsites in the park which are open from mid-May to mid-October and are first come, first served.  If you prefer a hotel to camping (like me!) you will want to reserve a hotel in the Durango area.  

The park has only one entrance and it and the main park road are open 24 hours all year.  There is a Visitor's Center at the Park Entrance and Spruce Tree Terrace near the Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum sells food, gifts and souvenirs year round.

The admission fee is $15.00/vehicle from Memorial Day to Labor Day and $10.00/vehicle the rest of the year.  Again, if you are planning to visit several National Parks during the year, you may want to check out the National Park Annual Pass.


Beautiful Views from Pullouts
It is also helpful to know that there are several areas to visit while you are in the park.  Of these areas...there are two general locations:  Chapin Mesa (road open year round) and Wetherill Mesa (open in summer only).

Chapin Mesa

Along the Way to Chapin Mesa
Along the Way to Chapin Mesa
This is the area that you will most likely want to visit.  There are several locations within the Chapin Mesa area.   These include, Chapin Mesa Archeological Museum, Spruce Tree House, Mesa Top Loop, Cliff Palace, Balcony House, Far View Sites and Petroglyph Point/Spruce Canyon.  Of these Spruce Tree House is the best preserved cliff dwelling and allows for a self guided tour.  Cliff Palace and Balcony House also are cliff dwellings areas but they require a ticket for a ranger guided tour.  Both also require more climbing so be sure to check out the physical requirements before purchasing your tickets.

Wetherill Mesa

You must park your vehicle near the ranger station and walk or ride the tram to each of these sites.  Long House, Step House, Badger House Community and Nordenskiold #16 Trail. 



When You Arrive

Visitor's Center

Visitor's Center

View of the Mesa from the Visitor's Center

Exhibits at the Visitor's Center

Diorama at theVisitor's Center
When you first arrive at the park, your first stop should be at the Visitor's Center.  It's a great place to get oriented to the park.  There is a bookstore, exhibits and rangers to answer any questions you may have.  This is also the place to purchase tickets for the ranger guided tours of Cliff Palace and Balcony House.  There are very nice restroom facilities at the Visitor's Center.  You can also pick up a guide to Spruce Tree House for $1.00 donation.  Since it is a self-guided tour I would recommend that you pick one up before you head up and you will be set to go.

Our Day at Mesa Verde

There are many ways to visit this park.  We planned on spending about half a day and this itinerary helped us stay on schedule.  If you plan to visit more of the dwelling areas or take the guided tours you will want to plan on an entire day or possibly more.

Visitor's Center

Our first stop was at the Visitor's Center.  We checked out the exhibits inside, asked a few questions of the rangers, picked up a guide to Spruce Tree House and used the restrooms before heading on our way.  This is also a great area to get some pictures of the entire Mesa before you head up. The road to the Chapin Mesa area is 21 miles and takes approximately 45 minutes.  There are many beautiful sights to see on your way up, so be sure to figure in drive time!

Chapin Mesa

Once you arrive at the Chapin Mesa area, there is a large paved parking lot with plenty of space for vehicles. We parked near the Archeological Museum.  There are restrooms located a short walk through the parking lot.  The pathway down to Spruce Tree House begins next to the museum.

Spruce Tree House

Spruce Tree House



Spruce Tree House (Spring - Fall)

Spruce Tree House
Our first stop in the Chapin Mesa Area was at Spruce Tree House.  This is the cliff dwelling that has been the most well preserved.  This is a self-guided tour so move at your own pace.  There is an incline to get down to the cliff dwelling and as you know what goes down must go back up.  The incline is moderate and there are benches along the way to rest.  Remember you are at a higher elevation here than you are probably used to so physical exertion can feel even worse if you are not used to it!  Make sure to take some water along with you.  Having said that, most people should be able to do this walk down to the cliff dwelling and back up with minimal difficulty.  If you can do it, you definitely should!

Spruce Tree House is one of 600 cliff dwellings within Mesa Verde National Park.  Who knew there were that many??  The guide that we purchased at the visitor's center was very informative on the trek down.  Once we got to the bottom of the hill and to the actual cliff dwelling, there were rangers there to answer any questions you may have.  

Exploring the Kiva!
There are many areas to explore here, you can walk up close to the dwellings themselves.  Make sure you go down the short ladder into the kiva that has been restored.  It's very interesting to see the kiva structure and the ladder is sturdy and easy to climb.  

The trip back up
We spent about half an hour in the cliff dwelling itself taking photos and asking questions of the rangers.  Then it was time to start the trek back up the hill.  As I said, just take your time, there is no rush!
Spruce Tree House

Archeological Museum (Year Round)


Our next stop after the cliff dwelling was the Archeological Museum.  I have to admit that we are not really museum people so we pretty much took a quick look and flew around this area.  We were done in about 15 minutes.  There are many exhibits to be seen here and lots of artifacts taken from the cliff dwellings themselves. If you are a person who likes to read the exhibits and take a look at everything, please figure at least an hour for your visit.  


Spruce Tree Terrace

Spruce Tree Terrace (Open Year Round except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day)

Spruce Tree Terrace
Since it was getting to be lunch time and this is the only place to eat in the park, we decided to make a quick stop for lunch.  There is a very nice gift shop here where you can purchase gifts/souvenirs.  The cafe is attached to the gift shop and has indoor as well as outdoor seating.  Our food was very good and was done quickly.  There are also restrooms next door to the Cafe.  I would recommend stopping at them before you continue your day.


The Path to Spruce Tree House

Mesa Top Loop (Open Year Round)

Square Tower House


Views from Mesa Top Loop Drive

Views from Mesa Top Loop Drive


After lunch, we headed on our way for a self guided auto tour of Mesa Top Loop.  Stops along the six-mile road show the full range of architecture at Mesa Verde.  You will see the earliest pithouses to the latest cliff dwellings.  There are pull offs along the side of the roadway which are well marked.  Each of the sites are a short walk from the parking areas.  

Architecture along Mesa Top Loop Drive
Architecture along Mesa Top Loop Drive
The highlight of the driving tour is a stop called Sun Point View.  If you do not want to stop at all of the pullouts....make sure you do stop at Sun Point View.  There area  a dozen cliff dwellings set into the alcoves that are visible from this area.  

Other highlights were Square Tower House Overlook and the Sun Point Pueblo.  It took approximately 1- 1 1/2 hours for the trip around Mesa Top.  This allowed time to look at the various architecture and to take lots of photos.


Tip:  Pick up a guide to Mesa Top Loop at the first stop.  It costs 50 cents and is well worth it to know what you are looking at.

Final Thoughts

After taking a look around up on Chapin Mesa, the weather started to change a bit and the rains were starting.  We headed back down to the Visitor's Center and then out of the park.  This was a very interesting National Park and one that I would highly recommend visiting if you are in that area of Colorado.  I think the reason it isn't a more visited park, is mainly because of it's location.  There isn't a whole lot of other attractions nearby.  Four Corners Monument is about an hour drive from the area and the City of Durango has lots to see but you really are kind of out in the middle of no where.  

This Park certainly gives you a look at the past!


Coming Next:  Historic Durango and a Crazy Snow Storm


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