Monday, March 7, 2016

The Great National Park Adventure: Day 8: Old Faithful and Beyond

Back to Yellowstone - Day 2



Our second day in Yellowstone started with about a 1hour 45 minute drive from Bozeman, MT to the West Gate of Yellowstone.  It was a very easy drive and quite pretty.  If you are looking to stay a little closer to the gate, there are several hotels in West Yellowstone, MT that are a very short drive to the gate itself.

Our plan was to spend the day in the southern part of Yellowstone. This is an exciting part of the park since it is where the most famous of all Geysers...Old Faithful...is found.  Before we got to Old Faithful though, we had several stops to make and some pretty amazing sights to see!  We turned on our Gypsy Guide to Yellowstone once again and headed on our way.

Lower Geyser Basin










Our first stop of the day was at the Lower Geyser Basin.  This is an area that encompasses almost 12 square miles and has many thermal features that you can view.  The 










Great Fountain Geyser is the most famous of the geysers in this area.  It is one of the Grand Geysers that is predictable.  It erupts every 8-12 hours and the eruption lasts 45-60 minutes and averages a height of 100 feet.  There are several other geysers in the area as well as some pools and paint pots.  You never know when you might see a geyser erupt in the distance.

Great Fountain Geyser Sputtering
Here is a guide to the Lower Geyser Basin http://www.yellowstonenationalpark.com/lowergeyser.htm

Midway Geyser Basin


The Midway Geyser Basin is a very popular area.  There are two are two large thermal features in this fairly small area.  Redyard Kipling immortalized this area by referring to it as "Hell's Half Acre".  The two features you will want to see are:

Excelsior Geyser 


This Geyser was once the largest Geyser in the world.  It's last major eruption was in the 1800's and today is just a very large thermal spring.  It is beautiful to see and you can just imagine how it would have looked when it was active.

Grand Prismatic Spring


The Grand Prismatic Spring is what everyone goes to the Midway Basin to see.  Expect a crowd!  It is the largest hot spring in Yellowstone and the third largest in the world.  The colors of this hot spring are amazing.  They are so vivid and it is an absolutely gorgeous sight to see.  This is a must see in Yellowstone.  You may see photos of this beautiful spring from above....there is a small trail up a nearby hill that you can take if you want to get that shot.  It was a little too adventurous for us but there were people who were taking the hike.



Saphire Pool


Here is a guide to the Midway Geyser Basin:  http://www.yellowstonenationalpark.com/midway.htm

Upper Geyser Basin

The upper geyser basin is what most people think of when they think of Yellowstone National Park.  This is the area where the park's most famous geyser - Old Faithful - is located.  The Upper Geyser Basin is only 2 square miles but contains 1/4 of the entire world's geysers.  There is a boardwalk area that you can walk around and see many of the geysers and thermal features in this area.  Wear your walking shoes and plan on spending several hours in this area.  Here are some of my personal favorites in this area:

Old Faithful

Old Faithful is by far the most famous of all the geyser in Yellowstone National Park.  It was named because of its very predictable eruptions.  Eruptions occur every 30-120 minutes and last from 1.5 - 5 minutes.  There are signs nearby the geyser showing when the next eruption is expected.  There is a seating area around the geyser and the seats do fill up so be sure to plan to get there early or plan on standing.  

Tip:  If you want to get photos of the eruption (and who doesn't), be sure to stand with your back to the wind.  If you are facing the wind, the "smoke" from the eruption will obscure your view.

Old Faithful Inn






Old Faithful Inn was built in 1903-04 and is a beautiful historical Inn right next to Old Faithful.  If you are able to stay there, it is an experience.  Rooms are older, there is no air conditioning or television and prices are high but it is fun to say that you have stayed in this historical inn.  If you can't stay, please make it a point to walk through the hotel on your way to or from the geyser basin.  It is so beautiful inside, that it is definitely a must see.  There is a restaurant, gift shop, snack bar and lounge inside the hotel lobby.  There are also daily tours offered if you would like to learn more about this historical building.

Village Area

There is also a small "village" around the Inn and Geyser Area.  There are small restaurants and a post office and Visitor's Center.  This particular day we chose the Geyser Grille to get a bite to eat before heading over to the Geyser itself.  The food was just ok but it was a quick place to grab a bite and get out in time to make it to the next eruption.

Beyond Old Faithful


Continuing our trek south in the park, our next stop was at Grant Village for a quick stock up on snacks for the rest of the day.  From there we headed toward the South Entrance but lucky for us our Gypsy Guide came through one last time and instructed us to make a quick stop at Lewis Falls.  This was a beautiful waterfall that was a short walk from the parking area.  Definitely take the time to walk over and enjoy!



Grand Teton National Park


As you drive out of the South Entrance you will run into Grand Teton National Park.  While it gets less publicity than it's very large northern neighbor, Grand Teton is one of my favorite parks.  It is totally different than Yellowstone and just full of stunning beauty.  Unfortunately, this day brought all the smoke from the western wildfires directly into Grand Teton.  In fact the smoke was so heavy that you couldn't even see the mountains.  If you have visited this park, you will know how thick that smoke must have been!  

So....we adjusted our plans slightly and decided to just drive through to our stop in Jackson, Wyoming.  We decided that it was worth giving Grand Teton a pass and try it again the next day.


Homewood Suites Jackson






Our stop for the night was at the Homewood Suites Jackson.  After the Homewood Suites experience in Bozeman the evening before, we were a little concerned but found this stay to be very nice.  We were upgraded to the Aspen Suite (Room 319) upon checking in.  The room certainly did not disappoint.  It had a view of one of the butte's from the very large window.  There was a fireplace and rocking chair in the living room area to make it even more cozy.  There was a whirlpool tub in the bathroom and separate bedroom area.  This was a very spacious suite.  
The only problem that we had was that it was difficult to locate the parking for this hotel.  It is located in Downtown Jackson and parking is somewhat at a premium.  The covered area in front of the hotel where you can park to check in is very small and narrow.  There is parking behind the building but the lot is small and spaces are tight.  I would recommend checking in early to ensure you get a decent spot.

You are within walking distance to the Historic District from the hotel.  It is about 0.4 miles away and takes about 8 minutes to walk.  

Jackson Historic District


If you have never been to Jackson this is a must see.  If you have been to Jackson this is still a must see!  It just never gets old.  This area is a step back into the Old West with shops and restaurants and bars all around.  It comes complete with stagecoach rides around the square. Elk horn arches enhancing each of the corners of the square.  An old fashioned gunfight is the highlight of the evening.  You just have to walk around and take in the feel of this town!














Silver Dollar Saloon



Ok....this is where the evening got a little weird.  Looking back on it it was really a comedy of errors!  At the time, it was pretty annoying but hey...things happen...I just had no idea so many things could happen!

The restaurant opened at 5:00 PM for dinner.  My husband and I figured we would grab and early dinner and head back to the hotel to enjoy our nice suite.  We were seated quickly.  (That was about the end of the good things I can say!)  We looked at our menus and sat and sat and sat...  Many servers walked past us.  There were only 2 other tables with customers in the dining room.  We continued to sit and sit and sit.  Finally about 10-15 minutes had gone by without any acknowledgment.  It was like we were invisible.  We finally flagged down a manager and asked if there was someone who could wait on us.  He informed us that the server for our section had called off for the evening but he would be happy to take our order and get another server to take care of us.  Odd that they didn't realize that while we were sitting there but ok....we had ordered at least.  

Our drinks, bread and salads came out after a short time.  We both had the wedge salad and they were quite good.  This is when things went south quickly again.

Our server came out to refill our water glasses and when he got to mine he filled it and then dropped it on the table (it slipped out of his hand).  The glass shattered all over...sending glass and water all over the table and onto the bench (half booth) next to me.  He tried to clean it up from the table but the water leaked through the crack of the tables (2 tables pushed together) and went all over the shorts that I was wearing.  It was water....could have been worse!  Small shards of glass remained on the seat but the majority of it was cleaned up.  He didn't offer to move us or anything but we just decided to go with the flow at this point.

Our food came out shortly after that.  It was served by an assistant.  I have a feeling the server was a little bit embarrassed from the major water works that had just occurred. Well...the assistant goes to put the plate in front of me and the baked potato rolls off the plate and across the table!  I retrieved it and put it back on my plate.  No acknowledgement...little weird.   Then...he went to serve my husband's meal (he had ordered small potatoes...yes they were round).  The small potatoes rolled off the plate and onto the floor and landed on my foot!  He apologized and said he would bring more.  You guessed it....the other potatoes never arrived.

Finally our original server came back with a new glass of water and set it on the handle of the bread board.  It almost spilled again but I was able to catch it this time!  The final straw was when he refilled my husband's drink in my glass!  No apologies for our strange experience.  We were happy to just escape without further problems at this point!!!  

Perhaps it was just a really out of the ordinary experience but I have to say for the price of the meal ($100 + tip for two of us) , it was really rather disappointing.  The food was ok...nothing great but the service certainly was lacking.  Given the amount of other restaurants in the area, I would have a hard time recommending this particular establishment.  If I were back in town, I would try another one!

End of the Day

After a stop at the local patisserie on the way back to the hotel, we decided to call it a day and enjoy our dessert in our luxurious room!  

Coming Next:   The Great National Park Adventure:  Day 9:  Grand Teton and on to Park City, UT


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Tuesday, January 26, 2016

The Great National Park Adventure: Day 7: A Whole New Look at Yellowstone National Park

Changing Directions on the Fly

Our original plan was to visit Glacier National Park for two days.  We had even thought that since my husband had forgotten his passport in the hotel room the day before, that we might drive through Glacier again and head up to Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, Canada.  However when we woke up our plans quickly changed.  The entire area was covered in smoke from the wild fires.  Now the wildfire in Glacier itself had been pretty much contained by this time but the smoke from the fires in Washington State was blowing into the area and it had become quite thick.  

Since we had spent the last half of the day in Glacier with the smoke settling in, we knew that views would be obstructed.  Our hotel for the evening was in Bozeman, Montana so we had a little bit of flexibility in our schedule.  Bozeman is about a 5 hour drive from Glacier National Park and an hour and a half drive to Yellowstone National Park.  We were planning to go to Yellowstone the following day.  

Last minute decision.....we decided to head to Yellowstone a day early, take a look around and head to Bozeman for the evening.  This turned out to be a terrific decision because it gave us more time to spend in Yellowstone and see things we might have missed in a shorter visit!

The Drive to Yellowstone

Well the smoke was thick on our drive, obstructing the views in most spots.  It's amazing to know that mountains are there and you can't see a thing.  The sun was there, but when it was visible it was filtered through the smoke and appeared red.  These conditions combined with the very early morning travel resulted in a very close encounter with a deer!  Luckily the deer sideswiped our rental vehicle and other than taking off with a molding....left it totally intact.  Sounded really bad but the damage was very minimal so we were able to continue along our way.  We passed several other vehicles that were not so lucky as smoke, traffic and wildlife apparently do not mix well!

We arrived in Yellowstone in the early afternoon.  This gave us several hours of daylight to explore the park and still get back to Bozeman for the night.

Yellowstone National Park

We began to see wildlife as soon as we entered the park!
Having family who live in the western United States, I visited Yellowstone a few times as a kid.  My husband and I also made a quick visit to the park about 14 years ago.  Each time we went to Old Faithful, walked around the geyser basin and were on our way.  As a kid, I did stay at the Old Faithful Inn once and in a cabin in the Old Faithful area but mostly we were in and out.  So when my husband and I planned this trip, we planned on driving through, seeing a few things and heading to Grand Teton (which is actually one of my favorite parks!)  Well having the extra day changed things our plans and allowed us to see what a gem this park really is!!!

At this point I have to digress for a moment.  A few years back we had rented a Gypsy Guide when we were in Maui to take with us on the Road to Hana.  We absolutely loved having it along.  It made the ride so much more interesting and pointed out stops that you had to make along the way!  We were heading back to Maui later in the year so we were wondering if the Gypsy Guide was now in app form and also if they offered any other tours.  Much to our delight both of things were a reality!  We rushed to the app store and purchased the Yellowstone Tour before our vacation.  This was THE BEST $4.99 we spent on this trip!!  I would HIGHLY recommend you purchase the app before you go to the park and also check out the other tours that Gypsy Guides offer.  You will not be sorry!!!  The guide points out must see things in the parks, provides information on what you are seeing, offers suggestions on hikes and routes to take.  The app works without cellular service (which is very important in the National Parks).  Just make sure you keep your phone plugged in (it does take some battery power to use) and you will be in for an enjoyable trip!  We saw so much more by using this app than we ever would have without it!

The Visitor's Center in Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot Springs

We entered the park from the Mammoth Hot Springs Entrance in the North of the park.  We made a quick stop at the Albright Visitor Center and headed to the Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces for our first stop of the day.  If you have been to Yellowstone before you know how interesting the terrain is....if you have not been to Yellowstone, I can only describe it as entering a whole other world.  Geothermal features are everywhere and anywhere you can imagine!  This means you may find the ground "smoking" at any time and you will most certainly smell the characteristic sulphur smell of the area!
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces - Boardwalk
Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces

The terrace area has many types of features and has a boardwalk that you can walk along to get closer to the scenery.  I would recommend taking a look around this area.  The trail is a few miles long and there are some uphill areas so make sure to take your time on your walk.  I will let the pictures do the talking here because it is not so easy to explain!









Sheepeater Cliff

Sheepeater Cliff

There is a little side road (never would have taken if it hadn't been for the Gypsy Guide) that will take you to Sheepeater Cliff.  It's not a long detour off the main roadway and is a short stop.  The cliffs are really interesting.  They look like the inside of honeycomb!  Definitely worth a short stop if you have the time.

Norris Geyser Basin





Norris Geyser Basin is the home of the oldest, hottest and most dynamic thermal area in Yellowstone National Park.  There is a boardwalk that will take you through the thermal area and brings you up close to many of the features.  Plan on at least an hour at this stop and quite a bit of walking.  This is definitely a place that you will want to stop!








After the Norris Geyser Basin we had a choice to make.  We could either head south on to the Old Faithful area or keep going around the upper loop of the park.  We chose to go around the upper loop and head to Canyon Village and the Hayden Valley.

Virginia Cascade






Another short detour that the Gypsy Guide alerted us to was the roadway to the Virginia Cascade.  Once again while it is marked on the park map, we never would have thought to go there if it hadn't been for the guide!  It is a very short detour that brings you back out on the main roadway and has a nice view of the waterfall.  If you are a lover of waterfalls, I would suggest you plan this small detour into your schedule!





Canyon Village

From the Virginia Cascade we headed on to Canyon Village.  This is a terrific place to stop and walk around.  There are gift shops and food (which we decided to pass on and later regretted!) and small grocery stores.  If you are looking for a good restroom stop and place to stock up on snacks...this is it.

Hayden Valley




From Canyon Village we headed south to the Hayden Valley.  It was getting toward evening time and this is a terrific place to see wildlife at this time of day.  It also happened to be rutting season (mid August)  for the bison so we saw huge amounts of them all over the roadway, beside the roadway, in the distance...you name it....everywhere we turned we saw bison!  Give yourself time in this area as the bison have the right of way and you never know how long you might be stopped waiting for them to clear the roadway.

Places to see within the Hayden Valley




There are a few must see stops in the Hayden Valley.  There are beautiful views of the Yellowstone river in this area (and many times wildlife by the river).  You will also come across the sulphur caldron and Mud Volcano.  Both of these take a short amount of time to stop and look around and I would recommend that you factor in the time to do this!  I mean...how often do you see a mud volcano??? 




Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone





From Hayden Valley, we turned around and headed back to Canyon Village and on to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  We hit this area around sunset and the views were beautiful.  Make sure that you take time to stop and see both the Upper and Lower Falls in this area.  There are parking areas that are close to both and are a short walk to the views of the falls.  There is a longer walk to the lower falls that takes time and is pretty strenuous (down is fine....going back up is difficult).  While you can get closer by taking the hike to the bottom, the views from the top are very nice and a much less strenuous walk to get there.  The yellow walls of the canyon are amazing.  This is a MUST DO if you are in the park! 







Unfortunately the wild fire smoke was starting to head into the park about this time of day and our views weren't quite as clear as we would have liked but still pretty stunning.

We also saw a grizzly bear in this area!  We were in the car so it was exciting...kind of glad we weren't out walking around though!


Tower Falls






By this time it was getting pretty close to dusk but we wanted to make one final stop at Tower Falls on our way around the loop back to Mammoth Hot Springs.  It is a short walk from the parking area to the overlook for the falls.  If you have time to stop you should hit this spot.  The view of the falls is nice.  There is also a small gift shop here and a place to pick up snacks.





Back to Mammoth Hot Springs


By the time we completed the loop and got back to Mammoth Hot Springs we were into twilight.  This meant that the Elk came out and were sitting all over the grass in the small "downtown" area!  Very cool to see!  Unfortunately it also meant that we were running out of daylight hours and we still had a couple hour drive back to Bozeman to get to our hotel!






Bozeman

Our trip back to the hotel was quite eventful!  Route 89 out of the north entrance of Yellowstone up to Bozeman is quite a dark roadway and is FULL of animals in the evening.  We had several very close calls with elk on our way back.  I would suggest if you are traveling this way that you leave the park before darkness sets in.  We were a bundle of nerves the entire length of this roadway.  There are also not a lot of services along this roadway.

Homewood Suites Bozeman

We finally picked up a sandwich at a McDonalds in Bozeman and headed to the Homewood Suites for the evening.  We were so happy to get there.  It was about 10:00 PM by this time and it had been a long day of driving and walking and we were ready to hit the hay.  Unfortunately this was the only bad experience among all the hotels we booked for this vacation.  The front desk ignored us when we got there, gave us a smoking room instead of non-smoking.  When we called down to see if we could change it we were told that it was the only room left.  We had booked a non-smoking room several months in advance and are Hilton HHonors Diamond Members but obviously they had given all the rooms away in our category before we arrived. (This tends to happen at Homewood Suites properties so beware of late check in at these properties.)  The room was dirty with old popcorn by the ottoman and stains on the drapes and carpets.  The room was on the side next to the highway and it was very loud with semis changing gears as they went up the hill outside our room.  Breakfast was horrible...half the items were gone by 7:00 AM when we were there.  All in all a terrible stay and I would not recommend this property.  There are many others in the area to choose from and I would suggest booking another one.

A Long Day but very Satisfying

We had a wonderful time exploring Yellowstone and were so happy that we took the extra time to see some things that we definitely would have missed!  We were looking forward to going back to the park the next day and continue our exploration!

Coming Next:  The Great National Park Adventure: Day 8:  Old Faithful and Beyond


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